Everything is done on SAI (CS6 for a bit of editing)
Let me show ya something quick:
Basically the trick is blending/how to blend colors. ALSO, dont use the blurr tool, blend within shades(it’s a bit difficult at first but you’ll get it)
My most used brush settings if you wanna give it a go:
I will do a more thorough walk through later on, but for now just give it a try!
hank you, im really glad you like it! I usually use SAI to draw and Adobe Photoshop Elements 2.0 (yes its absolutely ancient i knooow) to add certain effects i cant quite recreate in SAI
to get that fuzzy effect, i have the entire image on one layer and duplicate it, changing the opacity of the copy to around 30-40%
then i hide the copy for a bit, and select the background. there, i apply the “diffuse” filter found right here:
the “lighten only” mode, creates a base to get that “scanned pencil lines” look which helps to make it look more like a screencap of an older anime.
(i found that this works best with clear lines and cell shading)
then, still on the background layer, i get a gaussian blur filter going, found over here:
a radius of 1-2 pixels blurs the whole deal out a little to make it look like its a good ol low quality screencap
then i go back to the other layer and, using the same gaussian blur filter but a radius of 15-20 pixels, get that foggy feel going!
this step is the most important as it creates that dreamy, foggy feeling which helps to make it look like ye olde animes
lastly, i clean up some highlights that might’ve gotten washed away by all the blurring, and we’re done!
of course you can always do more things like add a texture to make it a little grainy, or resize the canvas to fit the average dimensions for most old animes, or do something difficult and technical with the colors which i know nothing about, but i feel like this process is a pretty alright method to satisfy those ~ a e s t h e t i c ~ cravings!
(quick before/after)
i hope this helps, im sorry this turned out so long…..feel free to ask me to clarify if anything isnt clear!
typically these should be in every photoediting/drawing program like photoshop too if u guys are unsure c:
I’ve had a general idea what these things did but wasn’t completely sure what their specific functions were. I decided to sit down and figure it out, and I have thrown together a short reference guide for anyone who is confused about them. I know there are multiple translations of SAI floating around, so if some of these terms don’t sound familiar, just know that I’m talking about the three settings that appear under the texture in the brush tool settings (note that this won’t apply to any tool types except for brushesand watercolor brushes).
I don’t claim to be an expert so if you find I’ve made a mistake, let me know so I can update it, thanks! :3
—-
BLENDING (Color Blending)
This controls how readily the brush will inherit any colors you are painting over with it. For example, a 0% blending setting will pick up no existing colors, treating it as if you were painting on a transparent layer. A 100% blending setting will ONLY pick up existing colors (provided there are any). So at 100%, the color you’re using won’t even show up, unless you move to a transparent area. Blending is not affected by transparent pixels, so if you’re drawing on a blank layer it will have no effect.
So you can see from this example that the color I’m using gets harder to paint as the blending increases and more of the existing green is absorbed, until at 100% it is just completely turning green.
—-
DILUTION (Opacity Mix)
This controls how readily the brush will draw on a blank (transparent) part of the layer. A 0% Dilution will result in the brush painting very easily onto a blank surface, while a brush with 100% dilution will literally not paint on blank parts of the layer at all. Dilution is ONLY affected by transparent pixels. So it won’t do anything if the whole layer is already filled in (even with white). Dilution can be thought of as the inverse of the Blending setting in some ways.
So in this example, you can see that as dilution approaches 100%, the color I’m painting with basically becomes invisible. In fact, if you were to switch to binary color mode and look at this layer, there would literally be nothing there anymore!
Keep this in mind – if you ever can’t paint for some reason, check your dilution setting, it might have gotten accidentally bumped to 100!
—-
PERSISTENCE
This one goes hand-in-hand with blending. Basically, it controls how easily a brush shifts color as you are blending from one color to another. Rather, how long it “persists” if you will. Like blending, Persistence is only really relevant when painting over existing color so it’s mostly unaffected by transparent pixels. Basically, the higher the persistence, the longer it will take for the color to shift as you make a stroke, and subsequently, from which color to which other color it is shifting is dependent on the blending setting.
So for this example I’ve done the same test with three different levels of blending. I turned off all pressure sensitivity (actually I just used my mouse) to emphasize the effects in a controlled environment:
If blending is at 0%, persistence fails to have any real effect. With pressure on, there is only the difference of having to push harder, but the results will be the same as far as I can tell.
At a happy medium of 50%, persistence increase causes the orange that the brush is picking up to last longer as it goes into the green, until it never shifts to blue at all.
At 100% blending, there was never any blue in the first place, because as we already know, full blending causes you to only pick up existing color. So the persistence setting changes only how fast the orange changes to green.
Persistence is dependent upon the blending settings, so having them somewhere in the middle will probably produce the most optimal results.
—-
CONCLUSION
Ultimately how you use these is up to you, and is largely dependent on what kind of brush you’re making and what it will be used for. And most of these settings are meant to be used together in unison, so play around with them a lot!
If you are confused, or not sure what settings you want or what settings you should be using, a safe bet is to put them all at about 50% – that will produce fairly average results that are easy to work with, and it’s easy to remember in case you want to experiment but don’t want to forget your settings in case you decide to switch back.
At 8:14 I completely forgot that procreation means ‘to make babies’.
— Program: Paint Tool SAI, Photoshop CS4 Canvas: 11 x 8.5 inches at 300 dpi Time taken: 3 hours to sketch, 8 hours to color. Tools used: brush tool for lineart at a low density and the pen tool at full density to color. Water tool was used for fast, uneven gradients and softer strokes. Overall process: lineart is set to color burn. If you control the pressure you can make more “transparent” strokes that you can quickly pick with right-clicking over the color. The more you do it the smoother it will blend. Lines were then painted over for a cleaner look. Overlays, multiply and color burn was used for the larger shadows.
hi guys today I made a tutorial on how to make my favorite art nouveau-y embellishments! these are a super fun and easy way to add a little emphasis to a drawing and you can make all kinds of designs once you get the basic flow! If you have any questions feel free to ask and let me know if there’s any kind of tutorial you’d like for me to make in the future !!!
Inspiration Haven 